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Best Aperture for Group Photos: A Guide by Group Size

Most advice says bigger groups need smaller apertures. The picture is more interesting: a bigger group makes you stand further back, and that makes the zone in focus deeper much faster than the group's depth grows. So a 50-person group may need less stopping down than a family of five.

How the zone scales with group width

For a fixed framing, the depth of field is proportional to the f-number and to the square of the subject's width across the frame. Double the width of the group and the zone becomes four times deeper. Here is the zone in focus for a group framed across the width of a full-frame sensor, which is independent of focal length to a good approximation:

Group widthf/2.8f/4f/5.6f/8f/11
1.2 m (a couple)17 cm25 cm35 cm50 cm69 cm
2.5 m (about five in a line)77 cm1.1 m1.6 m2.3 m3.2 m
4 m (eight to ten, two rows)2.0 m2.9 m4.1 m6.2 m9.3 m
6 m (twenty, three rows)4.6 m6.7 m9.9 m16 m28 m
10 m (fifty on risers)13 m21 m34 m81 mdeep to infinity

Compare that with how deep the group really is. Each row adds about 0.7 to 1 m, so a single row with a little stagger is roughly 0.3 to 0.5 m deep, two rows about 1 m, three rows about 1.8 m, and a tiered group of five or six rows 3 to 4 m. Set side by side, the table says a couple needs f/4, five in a line is fine at f/2.8 to f/4, and two rows of ten is fine at f/2.8. Twenty people in three rows have nearly 5 m of depth even at f/2.8, and a group of fifty on risers has 21 m at f/4. The common advice of f/11 to f/16 for large groups costs sharpness through diffraction and buys nothing.

Add margin

Those figures use the standard circle of confusion. For a large print, or if you will inspect at 100 percent on a high-resolution sensor, the usable zone is closer to a third as deep. Even so, a 6 m wide group still has about 3 m at f/5.6, which covers three rows. A sensible default is f/5.6 to f/8 for any group of more than about six people. It is plenty, and it leaves margin for people stepping out of line. For a couple or a small tight group, where the width is small, check the table and choose f/4 or f/5.6. The circle of confusion post explains the margin.

Where to focus

At group distances the zone is spread fairly evenly, not one-third in front and two-thirds behind. At 5 m with an 85 mm lens at f/5.6, about 45 percent of the depth is in front of the focus point and 55 percent behind. At 8 m and f/8 it is about 37 and 63 percent. So focus a third to a half of the way into the group, on the middle row for three rows, rather than on the front. Focusing on the front row wastes the zone in front of it, where nobody stands.

Lens and distance

You can frame a group with a wide lens up close or a longer lens from further back. At a fixed framing, the zone depth is roughly the same, and the wide lens is, if anything, deeper when you are near the hyperfocal distance. So the lens choice is about perspective, not depth of field. A wide lens used close stretches people at the edges, by about 12 percent at the side edge of a 35 mm frame, and a lens of 50 to 85 mm from further back keeps faces natural, as the lens compression post explains. Stepping back and using a longer lens is usually the better option.

Arrangement

Two groups of the same size can need different apertures depending on how they are arranged. A single curved line, bowing toward the camera at the ends, keeps everyone at nearly the same distance. Wedding party photos on steps, school photos on risers and families with children seated in front all add depth. If you can, have the back row lean forward slightly, and the front row sit a little back, which cuts the total depth. With the numbers above, though, this matters mostly for small groups, where the zone is narrowest.

Flash for groups

Light falls off with distance squared, so a single on-camera flash lights the front row more than the back. With rows at 5 m and 6.5 m the difference is about three quarters of a stop, and rows at 3 m and 4.5 m differ by over a stop. For groups of more than about ten people, flash held off the camera and to one side, or several flashes, gives more even results.

Quick reference

ScenarioStarting aperture
Couple, engagement photof/2.8 to f/4
Family of four, one rowf/4
Wedding party, eight to ten, two rowsf/4 to f/5.6
Extended family, twenty to twenty-fivef/5.6 to f/8
Staff photo, forty or more, on risersf/5.6 to f/8
School class, tieredf/5.6 to f/8

Count the rows, not just the people, check the zone against the group's width, and do not stop down further than you need to. The calculator will show the zone for your lens and distance.

Related reading: Portrait DOF: Choosing the Right Aperture, Diffraction: Why Stopping Down Too Far Hurts Sharpness, Hyperfocal Distance Explained.