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Lens Compression: How Distance Changes Perspective

You have seen the picture: distant mountains looming behind a small figure, or a tight portrait where the face looks perfectly proportioned. It is called lens compression, and the name is a little misleading, because most of what it describes comes from where you stand, not from the lens.

It is not the lens

Photograph a scene from one spot with a 50 mm lens and again with a 200 mm lens, then crop the 50 mm picture to match the framing. The perspective is identical. The relationship in size between subject and background does not change. What changes is how far back you must stand to get the same framing, and it is that distance that creates the effect. A longer lens just lets you stand further away.

The distance ratio

How large the background looks compared with the subject depends on the ratio of their distances from you. The apparent size of the background relative to the subject is the subject's distance divided by the background's distance. Take a person standing 6 m in front of a wall. From 2 m away, the wall is 8 m from the camera, giving 2/8, or 0.25. Step back to 20 m and use a longer lens to keep the person the same size, and the wall is 26 m away, giving 20/26, or 0.77. The wall now looks about three times larger relative to the person, though nothing has moved but the camera. The closer the two distances are to each other, the more compressed the scene looks. The post on telephoto compression and background distance on our Subject Distance site shows how much a background grows as you move back.

What the lens does decide

The focal length sets the angle of view, so it decides how far back you need to stand for a given framing. It also affects background blur, through the focal length divided by the f-number, as the bokeh guide explains. And there is one effect that really does belong to the lens: wide-angle stretching at the edges. A rectilinear lens stretches objects away from the centre, because it projects the scene onto a flat sensor. A ball near the edge of the frame becomes an oval, stretched along a line to the centre by a factor of one over the cosine of its angle from the axis. On full frame:

Focal lengthStretch at the left or right edgeStretch at the corner
14 mm1.6 times1.8 times
24 mm1.25 times1.35 times
35 mm1.12 times1.18 times
50 mm1.06 times1.09 times
85 mm1.02 times1.03 times

So a face at the edge of a 24 mm frame is stretched by about a quarter, even if you are standing 5 m away. This is separate from the close-range distortion of noses and foreheads, which depends on distance. The practical advice is to keep faces and round objects away from the edges of wide-angle frames.

Portraits

Photographing a face from very close range with a wide lens makes the nose and forehead look big, because they are noticeably nearer the lens than the ears. The portrait distance guide gives the working distances for each focal length. As a rule of thumb, around 85 mm at 1.5 to 2.5 m, depending on how tight you frame, gives natural proportions, and 135 mm from further back flattens a little more.

Landscapes

A 300 to 400 mm lens from a valley makes distant ridges stack up behind each other, because you are far from all of them and their distances are close in proportion. It works best when the layers sit at long distances from you, since a long lens at a long focus distance has a deep zone of sharpness. A 300 mm lens at f/5.6 focused at 300 m is sharp from about 195 to 650 m, so ridges in that range stay sharp. Focused at 100 m, only about 85 to 122 m is sharp.

Street

Shooting a crowded street from a distance with a 135 or 200 mm lens packs figures together, even if they are several metres apart. Long shots through warm air also show heat shimmer, because the light travels through a long stretch of turbulent air.

Using it deliberately

For more compression, stand further back and use a longer lens, and include a large background element. For less, move closer, use a wider lens and keep the background far behind the subject. Walking changes the relationship between near and far, whereas zooming just crops. Use both together.

A few common cases show the idea. A moon behind a skyline needs a long lens and a long distance, because the Moon always spans about 0.5 degrees, so you want your subject to subtend a similar angle. Dozens of buildings overlapping in a flat city shot come from 300 to 600 mm lenses used from a kilometre or more away. And a wildlife portrait from a safe distance with a 400 to 600 mm lens looks intimate because the compression flatters the animal's face and isolates it from the background.

GenreTypical lensWhy
Portraits85 to 135 mmNatural to flattering proportions
Landscape layers200 to 400 mmStacked ridges and a looming mountain
Street crowds100 to 200 mmPacked figures
Wildlife300 to 600 mmClose-feeling frames from a distance
Architecture35 to 50 mm, or shiftNatural proportions

Perspective always comes from position. The lens decides what you can frame from where you stand, how blurred the background is, and how much the edges stretch. If you want to know how far away you actually were in a picture, the calculator will tell you.

Related reading: Background Blur (Bokeh): How to Maximize It, Aperture vs Distance: What Affects DOF More?, What is Depth of Field?.